By Linny Folau

Jetting from a small island Kingdom of Tonga in the South Pacific to the East-Asian home of the world's tenth largest population- 128 million people, my trip to Japan was both an intriguing yet a terrifying experience.

After being selected as one of three Senior Journalists from the Pacific Islands for the Sasakawa Pacific Island Journalism Fellowship 2008 in Tokyo and never having visited the grand country, I hadn't the slightest clue of what to expect apart from what I had seen on the Internet of skyscrapers and busy city streets.

In fact Tokyo was much more. I will remember it as a fast-paced, neon lit metropolis. Amazingly, for a big and busy city was how clean it was. This observation I took upon exploring the newly commercialized Shiodome area that we were put up in.

Six-day program

Assigned on a whirlwind six-day program to learn and report on the core issue of 'Japanese Fishing Culture and Tradition', the theme of this year's fellowship, I embarked with scant knowledge of their fishing culture apart from the popular delicacies of sushi and sashimi dishes.

Weary of being the youngest, the only female (two male colleagues from PNG and Micronesia, led by Pacific Magazine Publisher Floyd Takeuchi), and not having any deep insight into the theme, I basically decided to cast any fears and doubts away in order to tackle the hard week ahead of us.

The program was organized by Ms. Akiko Sato, the Secretary of a local non-government organization Women's Forum for Fish. What I quickly learned on any visit is how important Japan's fishing culture is to its people, and their love of seafood.

During the intensive week long program we visited Tsukiji Fish Market - the biggest in Japan. An early morning field trip allowed us to witness Japan's central fishing auction heavily centered around tuna. I was bedazzled at how a fish market could be so vibrant and busy, and how so many people were up in the crack of dawn to engage in the trade.

The rest of the days were an intense trip of train rides and domestic plane rides to get to two villages, Katsurra and Taiji. It was a natural respite from Tokyo and I found to be more at home here with the slower place in life, closer to what I am used to. One of the highlights here that I did not get to experience in fast pace modern Tokyo city was soaking my worn-out legs in a public hot spring in the fishing village of Katsuura.

The hot spring was a soothing sensation similar to a modern Jacuzzi of jetting water massaging my feet. Additionally, I was able to experience the 'public bath' in Taiji village. Awkward at first, I managed to fetch up the courage to try it considering it meant just that - 'public.' That entailed collective bathing - me, and every other woman staying at the Japanese Hotel.

Beautiful town

But what I fell in love with the most during the visit was arriving to Taiji village. At first glance was a beautiful coastal town with mystic mountains and dense forestry and a beautiful coastline overlooking the whole village. This was a breathtaking sight I would never forget.

Meeting and talking with elderly members of a Taiji local Fishery Agency, I was impressed at how deeply rooted they were in their culture and tradition. This was something I could easily identify with coming from an island country. The hospitality extended by these people during our short overnight stay was an exotic traditional dinner.

Although I may have my own personal reservations to whaling, I did not let that get in the way of my experiencing their culture and tradition, and learn about what makes 'them' unique.

The experience while working in Japan will stay quite firm in my mind. Learning about Japan's fishing culture and industry first hand was an invaluable experience. Equally important was the friendships forged with all the people I met in particular my two colleagues. Although we came from different Pacific island countries the values in subsistence and trade in fisheries was steadfast.

Work ethic

Working with Mr. Takeuchi, whose articulate professionalism and immense knowledge on the Japanese culture and work ethic was a highlight for me because as tough as a boss he was, his drive and passion for the job was inspiring.



The Sasakawa Peace Foundation staff, particularly Ms. Mizuki Otani, and our lovely translator Miki Fujii and Akiko Sato who were with us everyday also left a big impression on me. Their assistance and 'friendship' has proven invaluable.

In summarizing the trip, I have returned a changed young woman. I have with me a new profound feeling from learning first hand about Japan's fishing culture and their way life, which has nested an urge in me to learn more about other people and the ways, they live.

Hence my view on life and journalism in particular has changed forever - for the better.

The writer was a 2008 Sasakawa Pacific Islands Journalism Fellow. This story was written while she was in Japan on her Fellowship.